Fall travels to Scotland, Part Two

      Each trip we take to Scotland takes on its own personality—some end up being castle trips, others are filled with ancient sites, and yet others we find centered around whisky distilleries.  This trip, though, has become more of a golf trip than we’ve had in years.  It was partly that I had planned a little more golf than usual, but it has also been because of the weather.  Scotland had a rubbish summer with loads of wind and record rain—our friends say simply there was no summer.  Autumn, on the other hand, has turned out glorious with almost no rainy days and that has meant that the golf is good.  Better than good; fantastic!  Let me tell you a bit about our now golf trip in four parts: competitions, golf course receptions, glorious days on the links, and a perfect day.

When planning this trip I noticed that there were a couple of Open Pairs competitions in areas we’d be in.  Because we’re members of a Scottish golf club, St Fillans GC in Perthshire, we are allowed to enter course open competitions, something fairly rare in US golf.  Cost is almost nothing, but we do have to play “greensomes,” which means we both tee off on a hole and then pick the best drive and play alternate shot through the green.  We entered an Open at Boat of Garten Golf and Tennis Club in the Scottish Highlands—a course we’ve played many times and quite enjoy.  We were paired with Mark and Fiona from a village near Aberdeen (about two hours away).

Anne, Fiona, Mark at Boat of Garten GC.

Boat of Garten GC

Mark works on the North Shore oil rigs and they were great playing partners as we hacked our way around the great James Braid course.  Anne and I ended up where we wanted to in the competition—not on the bottom.  A week later we played at Westhills GC near Aberdeen on Scotland’s northeast coast paired with Ian (who also works on the oil rigs) and Fiona (a popular name in Scotland) from Montrose about an hour south of the course.

Ian, Fiona, and Anne at Westhills GC.

Fiona tees off at Westhills.

This competition was different because neither of us couples had ever played the course.  It was quite an adventure for all us on a tricky, hilly course hitting blind shots without any idea where we were going or where we’d leave our partners to hit from.  The good thing was that again we weren’t on the bottom of the entries, though Anne did see parts of both courses she never would have normally seen.  The benefits of playing in Open competitions is the chance to play new or interesting courses cheaply (fees are minimal) and the chance to play and make new friends.

On this trip we’ve received some Rock Star receptions at courses we’re playing for the first time and courses we returned to, took a copy of our book to, and played again.  Courses usually grant us “courtesy of the course” (free golf), set up a tee time for us, and send us out.  When we return with a book, it’s drop off the book at the golf shop or bar and go out to play.  This trip was different.  At Hilton Park near Glasgow we were met by the golf pro who introduced us to the club secretary/manager and the club historian/past captain.

Craig and Murray on the steep downhill 2nd on the Alexander Course at Hilton Park a few miles from Glasgow.

A par 3 on the Hilton Park Course.

Craig Bell and Murray Ritchie then guided us around the Alexander Course.  After our round and drink in the lounge, Craig took us by buggy around the Hilton Park course.  A lovely reception and a full tour at a couple of lovely courses.  When we took a book to the little 9-hole course at Tarland in the Highlands we got a surprise reception.  The secretary had set up golf in exchange for a book, but when we brought the book into the small lounge the club captain was there but knew nothing about our visit.

Tarland GC

One of the best holes at Tarland is the 4th.

The clubhouse is small at Tarland GC, but the members are friendly.

When he saw the book with the Tarland write-up in it he was thrilled to see his course ing the book.  He also remembered photos I had sent to the club after we first visited.  He told the steward behind the bar to set us up with trolleys and not to charge us—he didn’t know the secretary had already arranged to comp us.  When we came in from our round the captain dropped in again to check that we had enjoyed our round and to tell us our visit was already up on the club’s Facebook page.  It did make us feel like celebrities, for at least a short while.  Then at Peterhead GC when we gave the book to the lounge staff, she immediately got the secretary, John Miller, to come out to meet us.  He made sure we had everything we needed and we enjoyed a great round on the links.

Peterhead GC

Anne relaxas at Peterhead.

After our round as we were putting our clubs in our car, some Canadian golfers came up to us and asked if we were the authors who had visited the course.  Evidently, the secretary had been talking about our book to everyone in the clubhouse all morning.  Our reception at the courses we visit or revisit is always positive, but sometimes a Rock Star reception is a special touch. 

Besides the special times at the courses, this year has been full of just plain wonderful golf—great and fun courses and beautiful weather.  Some days there have been clouds about, but we haven’t gotten rained on even once.  Old Moray GC is one of our favorite courses.  Nestled up to the Moray Firth the course plays in the low linksland between the sea and the Lossiemouth RAF base where on weekdays NATO fighter bombers practice take-off and landings with the usual flight pattern bringing them in directly over the course.

Jet coming in almost directly over us at Moray Old GC.

Some locals say the jets are a bother, but we think they are fascinating—noisy, but fascinating.

Besides the jets, traffic can be a distraction on a couple of holes.  Lossiemouth Lighthouse in the background.

John Murray, the club professional, sent us out in mostly sunny weather with about 15 mph winds—just enough wind to bring more of the troublesome gorse or whins into play.  Further east on the Morayshire coast  we caught a lovely day at the relatively new Maverston GC near the village of Urquhart.

Maverston GC

Anne teeing off on a par 3 at Maverston.

Almost no wind bothered our shots as we wound our way around the two-year-old cross between a heathland and parkland track.  This course will be featured in the revision of Golf in Scotland: The Hidden Gems.  On the northeast coast above Aberdeen we were booked into Newburgh on Ythan (EYE-than) GC on what turned out to be a perfect day to be on the links which run beside the River Ythan.

The first at Newburgh on Ythan GC climbs quite steeply.

Newburgh GC is in the direct path of helicopters ferrying workers to and from the offshore oil rigs.

The 16th at Newburgh is named "Short" because it's only 150 yards, but we named it "Hit and Hope" because you tee off over tidal marsh and gorse and can only see the top of the flag.

The light breeze was barely enough to keep us from getting too hot in the direct autumn sun.  But there was no breeze and nary a cloud when we played the highest 18-hole course in the UK, Braemar GC (about 1500 feet).  The course plays with water on every hole—we crossed the River Dee four time in the round and a burn four more times—but the water didn’t keep the temperature down.

The River Dee on Braemar GC.  We hit over it on four holes.

A par 3 at Braemar GC.

There are very few Scottish rounds of golf where I’ve wished I’d packed shorts, and this was one of those rounds.  On the last two holes the sun dipped behind the surrounding mountains and even then the coolness was just refreshing.  All these golf rounds were close to perfect (except for a few wayward shots), but they weren’t the best of this trip.

On Wednesday of last week we had a free day; no planned golf.  After a leisurely breakfast and a latte at a local tea room we struck out for some touring.

Steam train and the Broomhill Station.

After a stop the Broomhill Station on the Strathspey Tourist Rail line (it’s the old Glenbogle Station for those who watched Monarch of the Glen) to take pictures of the steam train, we decided see if we could get in a quick round at the nearby 9-hole Abernethy GC in Nethy Bridge.  Not only could we get on, we were the only ones on the course (other than the mower man).

Abernethy GC

A walk through the heather.

The parish War Memorial is in play on the 8th at Abernethy GC.

A beautiful Highland course all to ourselves was almost too good to believe.  We took our time—no one pushed us and we pushed no one.  There was a light breeze and a mixture of sun and heavy clouds, but though we saw heavy showers in the surrounding hills it never really threatened us.  We enjoyed the course and each others company.  As we were finishing up on the ninth we gave the course over to a couple getting ready to tee off on one.  Unplanned and unhurried, a Highland course to ourselves, no rain, some decent golf shots, a wonderful playing companion, what could possibly be better.

It’s all meant to change next week as the weather turns to days of rain and showers.  The next post might just be how we survived in the cold and wet of Scotland’s autumn.

NOTE: Today we played golf at Inverurie GC 40 miles from our digs in Ballater.  It took us five different road changes and 1:15 to drive there and that was ten minutes faster than the predicted time on a distance/time calculator.  Such is driving in the Scottish Highlands.

Fall Travels to Scotland, Part One

      We are more than a week into our fall trip to Scotland.  We've spent a few days in our home base of Crieff at Merlindale B&B before moving to the Highlands and played a bit of golf (some new courses, some on our home course in Scotland, some with our friends John and Jacky Clifford, and we even finished in the middle of the pack in a pairs competition at Boat of Garten Golf and Tennis Club).  We also managed to meet up in a tearoom near the Highlands with a couple we'd helped plan their trip to Scotland.  Tonight we are having dinner at Anderson's in Boat of Garten (one of our favorite restaurants) on Pie Night--looking forward to homemade specialty meat pies.

      In this post are two travel stories not completely related to this trip (well, the first one is... sort of... oh, you'll see) and photos that are from this trip.  Hope you enjoy both...please, let me know if you do (or don't).

Breakfast at PDX

King James Square in Crieff.

Meeting with friends, LaDonna and Hal, at the Watermill in Blair Atholl.

On the Hilton Park Allendar Course near Glasgow.

The Bag that Went to Africa

When we arrive at Crieff, Scotland, and our home B&B, Merlindale, the bags that we leave at the B&B were waiting for us in our room and our golf clubs were in the garage.  Beside keeping our clubs, the B&B also keeps a couple of equipment/travel bags which contain fleece blankets, golf clothes, extra sweaters, and all manner of trip “essentials.”  As we were visiting in the evening I remembered to ask who brought down our clubs and bags from the garage attic so I could pay them.  I found out it was Ailsa (the daughter, our adopted niece) and Angeles (the Spanish helper).  Since Ailsa was off to college, I paid Angeles who said, “It was no trouble even bringing down the bag that went ot Africa.”

“What?!” I said.  With the cat out of the bag we now got the whole story.

It seems that after our spring trip, before the bags got put into the attic, Jacky (our Scottish sister, B&B owner) helped get Netzi and Shay (schoolmates of Ailsa and children of Colin and Joanne, UK ambassador to Gambia) headed home for the summer.  They loaded all the kid's luggage into the car, drove to the Edinburgh airport, and saw the kids off to Western Africa.  When Netzi and Shay arrived at the British Embassy in Banjul, Gambia, Joanne took charge of the luggage.  As she started the unpacking she discovered that one bag was not theirs.  Going through the contents of the bag she found a sweater she recognized was Anne’s and knew it was our bag the kids had brought from Scotland.  When Joanne brought the children back to Crieff for school, she brought our back back.  The bag’s trip to Gambia and back would have been expensive (luggage fees) except that it traveled for free as diplomatic luggage.

Joanne and the kids were sworn to secrecy by Jacky, but Angeles let it slip.  So now we are the proud owners of the Bag that Went to Africa.

The Jam Room at House of Bruar (before they told me no photos).

Boat of Garten GC

At the Boat Open competition we played with Fiona and Mark from Aberdeen.

Amur (Siberian) Tiger at Highland Wildlife Park near Kingussie.

Polar Bear at the park which is part of the Edinburgh Zoological Society.

Portland’s Expensive Parking

On this trip to Scotland (and most of our longer trips) we try to arrange a ride to and from PDX with friends rather than pay to leave our car at even the economy parking at Portland’s airport.  In fact, on shorter trips we stay at an airport motel which provides Park-n-Fly — we stay the night before our flight in the motel and leave our car for up to ten days free.  We do this now because on one eight-day trip to Phoenix and Tucson we found out how expensive airport parking was.

From a trip to Phoenix to see Anne’s sister, Bev, and her husband, Noel, and to Tucson to visit the astronomical observatories there, we arrived back at PDX late in the evening.  Luggage in hand we took the shuttle bus to the economy parking lot and started for home.  We stopped at the exit kiosk to pay the expected $80 parking fee.  I put my credit card in the machine, but the card wouldn’t cover the bill, which when I looked closely was $60,500 for eight days—almost $8000 a day!  The machine wouldn’t give me my card back, either.  Totally frustrated I started pushing every button on the machine that I could reach through the car window.  Finally, a supervisor came out to see what the trouble was.  I breathlessly explained.  She looked at the machine and said, “That is a little high even for Portland.”

It took about twenty minutes to clear the machine and get our card back.  I paid the real $80 bill in cash—no way was I going to stick my card back in that machine.  Friends or Park-n-Fly are preferable to PDX’s high parking fees any day. 

Rumbling Bridge (falls) near Birnam.

Hilton Park GC

Duff House Royal GC on the Morayshire coast.

Loch Morlich in the Cairngorm National Park.

River Lineage in the Cairngorms

Ancient Scottish Pine on the Rothiemurches Estate in the Highlands.

Next: We spend another week and a half in the Highlands, touring and golfing.

Olympic Peninsula Road Trip, Part Two

Day Two (continued)

Once we got back to Hwy 101 from Hurricane Ridge it was a relatively short drive to Lake Crescent.  Guide books say that there are plenty of turnouts along the lake for viewing, 

Lake Crescent

but what the guides don’t say is that it is basically the same view from each pullout—rocks at the water’s edge, a pretty lake, shore and trees on the other side.  One stop for photos was enough. 

We were going to stop for a some lunch snacks until I saw the Hungry Bear Cafe. 

Hungry Bear Cafe at Bear Creek

The owners of the Hungry Bear Cafe certainly fit the place.

With a quick U-turn we pulled up at the rustic cafe which advertised home cooking.  The chicken noodle soup of the day was definitely not Campbell’s—it was delicious.  So too were the two giant chocolate chip cookies we got for the road.

Our stop at LaPush, WA, fourteen miles off Hwy 101 was our second experience with Olympic beaches.  The name LaPush comes from the French for “mouth” and it is the largest village on Quileutae Indian Reservation and sits at the mouth of the Quileutae River.  

LaPush Harbor

Dinner!

At the harbor we were lucky enough to watch an eagle grab a fish from the small bay and fly practically over our heads to its forest nest.  The beach (named Beach One) was crowded with families enjoying the seventy degree weather.  

Beach One at LaPush

We enjoyed the views of the island or sea stacks just off shore.  We skipped Beaches Two and Three—Two was just the other end of One and Three was a long hike—and drove on to Rialto Beach six or so miles away.  

Rialto Beach was about eight miles north of Beach One at LaPush.

The view north from the parking area at Rialto Beach.

A driftwood forest at Rialto Beach.

We hiked from the parking area at Rialto for a serious climb over massive piles of driftwood to get to the beach.  

After our beach adventures it was only a short drive into Forks where we had booked the last room available at the Pacific Inn.  Forks was originally a lumber town, but now is more famous as the setting for the vampire-themed fantasy-romance “Twilight” novels by Stephanie Meyer and the movie saga that came later.  Since the release of the first “Twilight” movie in 2008, tourism in Forks has increased 700%.  The pizza at Pacific Pizza was fairly good, but nothing else about the place was: disorganized staff (they tried to give us the food of three different groups) and out-of-control grandparents (who screamed louder than the kids).  A highlight was the after dinner drive back to Beach One at LaPush for sunset photos.  

We ended day two completely exhausted.

Day Three (Wednesday), Forks to Rochester

As bad as Pacific Pizza was for dinner the night before, the Forks Cafe was good.  Not a fancy place and definitely in the category of diner, the Forks Cafe had a friendly, efficient waitress who hustled with a full house.  

Forks Cafe

Food was plentiful and tasty. After breakfast we drove eighteen miles off Hwy 101 following the Hoh River to the Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park.  This was one of out most anticipated stops.  I at least had pictures in my mind of lush forest dripping with mosses and shrouded in mists.  Not this year!  

Anne hiking the Mosses Trail.

The rain forest was pretty , but not very unique to us.

The forest was dry and dusty and the mosses were dry and dusty.  Much to my disappointment the Hoh rain forest was just like almost any trail in the Oregon coast range (Drift Creek Falls) or most trails in Cascade foothills (Butte Creek Falls).  I guess if you were from Iowa or Kansas and had never seen a coastal forest, the trails at the park might be interesting, but it was quite a disappointment to drive inland 18 miles to find nothing interesting.

Our next stop made up for the Hoh disappointment.  When Hwy 101 turned back to the sea we pulled off at Ruby Beach.  

View of Ruby Beach from halfway down to the beach from the parking area .

From the parking area we hiked down to the beach and found it to be a lovely stretch of sand and driftwood punctuated with sea stacks and islands.  We walked about a mile up the beach taking pictures of the sea and the rocks.  

Island and sea stacks at Ruby Beach.

Fisher-people getting ready to try their hand in the surf.

Approaching a large sea stack (island) getting cut off from the beach by the incoming tide, I saw an eagle circling the island and snapped a picture (from long distance) as it landed in the top of a tree.  

The eagle is landing.

Both Anne and I kept photographing the eagle sentinel as we got closer to its perch.  I was sure it would fly at any moment, but it never did (at least not while we were on the beach).  

The sixty or seventy photos I shot at Ruby Beach made up for the ten or twelve I shot at Hoh.  

The rest of the trip past Hokuiam and Ocean Shores and through Aberdeen was fairly mundane—not much interesting to see.  We stayed overnight near Rochester, breakfasted again at Country Cousin in Centralia, and had about a two hour drive home.  There were some highlights and some disappointments, but I’m glad we did the trip…once.   

Next Post: The next post will come from Scotland where we will stay in Central Scotland for a few days before heading to two weeks in timeshare in the Highlands and finishing the trip back in Central Scotland.  Lots of golf and sightseeing; so, there will hopefully be good stories and photos.  Until then, I hope you enjoy these couple of warmup photos.

Perthshire Highlands