Missing Our Travel to Scotland

 

Footbridge over the River Tweed in Peebles.

When we think about Scotland (which is often), what first comes to mind is Crieff in central Scotland. This is our second home, but as nice as Crieff is, I think of Peebles in the Scottish Borders an hour south of Edinburgh as a more iconic village. It was the first village we stayed in and our base until we were adopted by our family in Crieff. When I decided to tell you about Peebles as part of this post, I found that my supply of photos was woefully lacking—converted early print and slide photos from bad cameras, lost files of photos from early travels, and an inexperienced photographer (me). I think, though, I can still give you a feel for the typical Scottish village despite the weakness of the photos.

High Street, Peebles

St Andrews Tower is the oldest building in Peebles. The rest of the church was destroyed by Henry VIII.

Peebles (Na Puballen in Scottish Gaelic) is an ancient village at the confluence of the River Tweed and Eddieston Waters dating as far back as 600AD. The village, now of about 9,000, was made a Royal Burgh by King David I of Scotland in 1152. The town’s wide High Street attests to it being a market town. It was strong in the woollen trade in the 19th and 20th centuries—the last mill closed in 2015. Tourism developed in the late 1800s and continues to be the most important industry along with agriculture and particularly sheep farming.

Kailzie Gardens along the River Tweed is one of the main attractions in Peebles.

On our first day in Scotland (September 2000) we stayed in a B&B in Peebles (Lindores House) after visiting our first Highland Games just down the road. 

The annual Highland Games in Peebles ends with a clan parade from the playing field to central High Street.

That night we ate our first pub meal and were befriended by all the locals in the pub who were as curious about us a we were of them. Walking into town (about 10 minutes) from the B&B the next morning we were introduced to Scottish village life—shopping at the local butcher’s and bakery for the day’s fare, 

and watching from a pub as the school children dressed in classy uniforms visited downtown for their lunch of chips and Irn Bru. Dinner the second night was at a local hotel, The Crown, where we ate at one table while a lady and her Yorkie terrier ate at the next table, the dog in his own chair. A mile out of town is Niedpath Castle, built in 1370 and now lived in by the Earl of Wemyss.

Tour guide and print-maker, Amy, explains the older printing process at the nearby Robert Smail's Print Shop in Innerleithen village next to Peebles. Now under the care of the National Trust, the print shop has a copy of all printed material since the 1850s, including receipts for tickets on the first sailing of the Titanic.

Over the years we’ve visited Peebles several times, always reinforcing to me the friendliness of Scottish villages and towns.

A Walk too Far (from 16 Years of Travel in Scotland, Ireland, England, and Wales, available on Amazon)

Sometimes we bite off too much and too often I think I’m younger than I am. Such was the case in Cork, Ireland, on our first visit. That morning we played golf at the wonderful Cork Golf Club, known as Little Island. The course is a lovely forest or parkland track which is fairly easy to walk, but a round of eighteen holes is still an average of five miles of walking. When we got back to the B&B in the afternoon, Anne, smart person that she is, decided a little rest or nap before dinner was in order. I, being the dummy that I am, decided I would not waste the afternoon in frivolous rest, but would instead wander down to the main shopping area of Cork. A mile of pavement walking to town, at least a mile of wandering the downtown area, and a mile back to the B&B put my day’s total up over eight miles. Done yet? No. For dinner our B&B hosts suggested one of a couple of good Italian restaurants in the downtown area, but said it was best to walk since downtown parking was poor. Besides, it’s only a mile to town. By now my feet were beginning to hurt just a bit, but I was game for a walk to dinner. As I limped toward town, Anne asked what was the matter. I had to fess up that my feet were on the sore side. What I really should have said was that my feet were absolutely killing me. Dinner was delightful, but the walk home was excruciatingly painful. Even after a good soaking, my feet throbbed all night. 

By morning I could count the blisters on top of blisters with both hands. We searched the local chemist’s (pharmacy) for the best blister plasters they had. Even doctored up, at Waterford Castle Golf Club I had to take a buggy (electric golf cart) to make our round. Back in Cork for dinner I drove to downtown and to hell with the poor parking. 

    The Rest of this Post is a small compilation of some special Scotland photos that I haven't posted before. I hope you enjoy the eye candy.

The River Braan near Amulree at the foot of the Highlands

Harbour light at the village of Anstruther on Fife.

A birch forest out of the Highland village of Ballater near Balmoral Castle, the Queen's Scottish residence.

A picture of a small Highland church shot from the Harry Potter Train--the Jacobite Express which has daily runs between Fort William and Mallaig. The trip is considered one of the best steam rail trips anywhere. 

Hie'lan Coos (Highland cows)

Dunnottar Castle in Stonehaven near Aberdeen

Glen Etive and the mountains of Glen Coe. The mountain on the right is Buachaille Etive Mor, 1021 meters.

Barn on the Isle of Skye.

The Quiraing (Old Norse for "round fold") is an attraction on the Trotternish peninsula of the Isle of Skye.

Kirkmadrine Church in the Rhins of Galloway (southwestern Scotland) holds a collection of early Christian stones, thought to be the oldest in Scotland.

NEXT: We will be taking a four day trip to the Oregon coast soon and I am giving myself a photo challenge: each day I need to take at least three presentable photos. The photos should have some artistic merit and should be of a variety of subjects (little repetition). The blog will be about how well I meet my challenge. 

Scotland, Spring 2016 #1

I AM BLESSED

I Am Blessed with the world’s most understanding wife.

Anne at Monifieth GC between snow showers.

One who accepts my foibles, 

will put on a down jacket to play golf with me in the freezing cold,

who is willing to try any hair-brained activity I think up.

I Am Blessed with a great family when I didn’t get a choice.

I Am Blessed with more friends who recognized my birthday than years I am old.

I Am blessed with the ability to look back on a career where

I got to touch positively dozens of lives.

I Am Blessed with the opportunity to travel to an adopted land,

It's spring in Sma'Glen about 10 minutes from our home base in Crieff.

visit my adopted family,

Anne and our adopted sister Jacky at the Lounge for dinner.

      just because I want to.

I Am Blessed with the chance to engage in a second career

where I can play a game,

write about it, 

and get to play more…for free.

Monifieth GC on Scotland's east coast.

I Am Blessed to have known some loving pets—

George, Myko, Waveet, Attica, and others.

And I Am Truly Blessed to have both the mental and physical faculties

       to still enjoy where life takes me. 

And Speaking of Blessed…

When in Dornoch in Scotland’s far north, Anne and I heard about a special local lad.  Michael, an energetic seven year old, was on his way home from chanter practice (beginning bagpipes) when he ran across a major road without looking.  He was struck and suffered severe head injuries.  At first it wasn’t known if he’d survive.  When his life wasn’t any longer in danger, it was questionable whether he’d ever walk or speak. Today, he is relearning speech and is starting to walk again.  The whole Dornoch community has been super supportive of Michael and his family—Michael’s mother works in the local school cafeteria.  

Michael flanked by his father and mother and backed by nine massed pipe bands.

        On the one evening we were in Dornoch on this trip our B&B host told us about Michael and about a pipe band march to be held as a fund-raiser for the family.   When we went out to watch the pipe band march we were surprise to see the town of 1200 filled with 3,000 to 4,000 people lining the main street.  

Dornoch waits for the bands.

Nine pipe bands from all over Caithness and Sutherland (the two Scottish northwest shires) were massing at one end of the street.  The combined bands marched down the street then turn back on themselves and marched back up to the top.  

And here they come. Talk about loud!

The pipe major takes his job seriously, seriously.

They did this for several sets of marches while volunteers walked through the crowds collecting donations.

It was inspiring to watch the broad community come together in support of a local lad.  And for us, it was absolutely thrilling to listen to and watch the combined bands.

The Weather

We picked up our rental Toyota Auris Hybrid at Arnold Clark’s near the Edinburgh airport and started to drive to Crieff where we spend most of our time when in Scotland.  We hadn’t driven but a few miles when it started snowing…on April 25th.  This was the start of our spring trip.  

Sma'Glen and the River Almond.

The next day on the golf course at St Fillans we were putting on the third green when it started sleeting.  The showers didn’t last long, but I had had on only a short sleeve shirt and vest.  

The Highlands

On the third day of our trip we were scheduled to play Monifieth GC on Scotland’s east coast near Carnoustie.  It was a day of take off your jacket when the sun was out because it was warm, put on your jacket when a cloud covered the sun, button up your jacket when it started snowing or sleeting, take off your jacket when the shower passed and the sun came out again.  

The Highlands, the next day.

Finally, as we were half way up the 18th hole it started snowing hard enough to pile up on the green.  We picked up our white balls and walked in.  

Glen Quaich

In Durness in the far northwest corner of Scotland we didn’t have any snow, but we did get drenching showers that came at us sideways from forty mile an hour winds.  And with temperatures about 4C (38F), the wind chill was well below freezing.  On the Orkney islands we had the same cold rain and wind. And then it changed.  

A small Highland village, Amulree.

We are now in the Highlands at our Aviemore time share and we’ve gone in two days from the low 40s to the mid 70s (which feels like 80s).  But who said anything about climate change! 

A Special Whisky Tasting

On our way from Crieff to the north we planned to take a special whisky distillery tour, part of the Speyside Whisky Festival.  We booked a tour of Speyside Distillery near Kingussie.  

Speyside Distillery

The distillery isn’t usually open for tours, but was opening as part of the festival.  Last year we had been introduced to the distillery’s product on a special whisky tasting tourist train, so were anxious to tour the distillery.  

A Copper Pot Still

Pot Still Details

The tour wasn’t as formal as most organized tours.  Instead, we got to wander the working distillery and take photos which is usually not allowed. At the end of the tour we got to taste five different Speyside Distillery products.  These are very special whiskies, absolutely not available in the US with only limited availability in the UK.  Most of the distillery’s production is sold in the Orient where it is very popular.  The rest is sold in Europe.  

The whisky served by the Royal Family.

Some of the most special of the whiskies are reserved for the Royal family who serve them at State functions and in their residences, such as Balmoral Castle and Holyrood Palace.  As I said, this was a special tasting.

Note: I've notice my hiccup pattern has recently changed, from three in a row to four.  Is the extra hiccup a perk of turning 71?

SANTA FE TRIP, PART TWO

To continue with our Santa Fe adventures....

The second part of the trip found us wandering more in Santa Fe, exploring Bandelier National Monument,  and playing more golf.

The street art was some of my favorite art.

Window displays in the shops were also fine street art.

The San Francisco de Asis Church in Toas has walls eight to twelve feet thick.

The San Francisco de Asis Church's angles are made lovelier with Taos' blue skies. 

The mystical staircase in the Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe has a great story.  In need of  help to build a staircase to the choir loft, the sisters prayed for divine help.  Soon a carpenter appeared, built an architectural masterpiece by hand, and left without accepting any pay.  Engineers are still studying how the staircase could be built.

Santa Fe is famous for its artistic doors to homes and shops.

Beautiful scenery on the way from Santa Fe to Bandelier National Monument near Los Alamos.

A cliff dwelling at Bandelier National Monument.

The Anasazi (the Ancient Ones) were the people who built these cliff dwellings as much as a thousand years ago.

I climbed up to level one, but the next four ladders got even steeper and more exposed.

Young people had no problem negotiating the ladders.

On the way from Bandelier to Los Alamos we stopped to watch a herd of mule deer.

The dry ground of Marty Sanchez de Links of Santa Fe (a municipal course) made for good roll.

. The last course we played was the Santa Fe Country Club (a public course).  This is the course I played the most while working at the summer debate camps in the early 90s.

We end our Santa Fe trip with another great sunset.

Scottish Festival and Our Next Trip:  As we got ready for our next trip to Scotland (the next post will be from there), we attended a Scottish Festival in Albany.

Our booth at the festival selling books and photos.

The good entertainment included a fine pipe band.

A special treat for us was one of our favorite Celtic vocal groups, Golden Bough.

Shortly after our return from Scotland we'll set up shop at the Newport Celtic Festival and Highland Games (June 13 and 14, at the Lincoln County Fairgrounds).