Scotland Spring 2016 #4: Back on the Mainland

After an uneventful ferry crossing from Stromness on Orkney to Scrabster by Thurso on the Scottish mainland, we faced a long drive to our lodging for the next week—Scandinavian Village, Aviemore in Cairngorm National Park.  Our first break in the drive came via an eight mile detour from our main route to visit Grey Cairns of Camster (aka Camster Chambere  Cairns). 

These are neolithic tombs or passage tombs built between 5000 and 6000 years ago—they are among the oldest buildings in Scotland.  The site is a set of two cairns; one called Camster Long and the other called Camster Round.  

The Long tomb is about 200 feet long with two burial chambers and two passage entrances—at one time they may have been separate cairns which have been combined for some reason unknown.  The two tombs are each about 15 feet tall and are about 50 feet apart.  If you have a torch (flashlight) the tombs are accessible, 

but it’s almost a crawl and is definitely more fitting for younger more agile explorers.  The other tomb, 

The Round Cairn

Camster Round, is a single cairn about 60 feet in diameter and 12 feet tall.  You approach both the cairns, which are in the care of Historic Scotland, by a wooden path over the moor.  An interesting and photogenic stop.

After a stop for a quick bite of lunch and a walk around the small harbour at Lobster, 

we checked into our digs for the week, Scandinavian Villege Unit #1, a two bedroom villa unit (villas have the bedrooms upstairs).  

This is a timeshare unit we exchange into on more than half our trips to Scotland; it’s become our second Scottish home after Merlindale B&B in Crieff.  

The view from our unit.

The mountain village of Aviemore, a base for hikers-climbers-skiers, is centrally located in the Highlands.  From here we can get to the North Sea coast in an hour, 

Hopman Harbour

have easy access to the Whisky Trail (more than twenty open distilleries are within an hour and a half), have numerous castles available for touring (including Brodie, Cawdor, and Ballindalloch),  

Loch an Eileen Castle

and have plenty of historic tourist attractions nearby (Culloden, Clava Cairns, Highland Wildlife Park, Cairngorm Mountain Funicular, and Strathspey Steam Railway).  And most importantly, it’s perfect for reaching some outstanding Scottish golf courses—Royal Dornoch, Nairn, Tain, Boat of Garten, Granton-on-Spey, Moray Old and New, and a couple of dozen more.

Relaxing on our patio with computer, whisky, and crisps.

   

One of the interesting villages nearby is Cromarty on the tip of the Black Isle, 

On the Black Isle--rape seed fields and oil rigs.

a peninsula with water on three sides and separated from the mainland on the forth side by rivers.  The name (in Gaelic t-Eilean Dubh) most probably refers to the black soil of the rich farmland of the peninsula. Cromarty is a small seaport at the mouth of the Cromarty Firth.

Looks like the fishing wasn't so good this day.

It used to be a ferry terminal for the smallest commercial sea ferry in the UK—the ferry to Nigg—and a fairly major fishing port.  

The small Cromarty harbour and oil rigs.

Now it’s known for its work on building and repairing off shore oil rigs.  

For us, Cromarty is a quaint harbour and beach with some nice shops and plenty of photo opportunities, including the local lighthouse.   

One of the highlights of our stay in Aviemore this trip was a visit to the Cairngorm Reindeer herd.  

The herd is Britain’s only free-ranging reindeer herd.  Records indicate that reindeer along with red deer were hunted in the 1200s, but reindeer were extinct in the UK by the 1900s.  Mike Utsi and his wife Dr. Ethel Lindgren co-founded the present herd, importing seven individuals from Sweden in 1952.  The present herd, ranging in two areas of the Cairngorms, is made up of 150 deer (all named).  The current managers, Mr. and Mrs Allan Smith, took over the herd in the 1980s and maintain the herd with a small but efficient staff of herders and volunteers.  Hill trips to the herd leave the Reindeer Centre at 11:00 year round.  First, is a one mile drive to a specific parking area, 

followed by a guided 20-30 minute hike (not too strenuous) up to the herd. On the tour, we met about thirty deer who gathered round to get fed by the guide, Abby, 

and then hand-fed by members of the tour (about thirty of us).  

The deer know there's going to be food.

The deer are not really pets and don’t care for much handling, but they are sort of friendly and some were interested in us, though mostly they were interested in the food.  

Abby spread out some grain to attract the deer.

Anne is hand feeding a yearling some special grain.

One of the interesting facts we learned was that reindeer and caribou are the same species.  The Reindeer Centre maintains and enlightening Blog at www.cairngormreindeer.wordpress.com.  Anne and I thoroughly enjoyed our hike and our visit with the herd.  The next story, from The Rambling Adventures of A Traveler and Golfer (2014), also relates to the reindeer:

They Do Exist.  Ailsa, our adopted Scottish niece (daughter of our B&B hosts), spent three days with her schoolmates at an outdoor camp near Aviemore in the Highlands.  She was only thirteen and this was a big adventure—camping out, cooking out, special wildlife experiences.  She returned exhausted, starving for her favorite foods, and angry.  Exhausted we understood when we heard all that she had done.  Starving was also understandable, after all she had had to cook for herself on a campfire.  But the anger surprised us.  After a shower and at dinner she said, “We saw reindeer at the reindeer farm, and they were real.  

I felt so stupid.  I thought they were just made up in the stories.  Nobody ever told me they were real!”  It took several minutes for all of us to stop laughing.

River Luinaeg in the Cairngorms--on our way down from the reindeer herd.

Next: Some great golf on this spring trip.

     

GOLF, FOOD, AND FESTIVAL

Fishing boat returns to harbour on Isle of Skye.

      Our recent trip to Scotland was filled with sightseeing, fun activities, family and more., but two parts of the trip will be highlighted in this post: the golf we played and the places we found to eat.  Besides those threads, I’ll end this post with a report on a Celtic festival Anne and I attended in Newport, Oregon.  First, though,…

THE GOLF.  On this trip we played 16 rounds on ten different courses, walked 72 miles, and had some wonderful experiences.  Some golf highlights (not in order of play) start with the round we played at Crail Balcomie Links on the East Neuk of the Kingdom of Fife on the east coast of Scotland about 10 miles from St Andrews.  

Crail Balcomie Links

Not only is the course a classic ancient (mid-1800s) course that is ranked in the Top 100 in the world, but the day was perfect for golf beside the sea—reasonably warm for this spring and with no wind.  After both of us scored well on the course, 

Rescue boat in Anstruther harbour.

Fishing boat leaves Anstruther harbour.

Pittenweem harbour.

we drove south along the sea and scored well with photos at two of the picturesque small ports of Fife.

At both Montrose Medal Course (along the east coast) 

Montrose Medal GC.

and Fortrose and Rosmarkie GC (on the Black Isle a little north of Inverness) 

Anne dressed for the cold, but sunny weather.

Fortrose and Rosemarkie GC on the Black Isle.

we fought cold winds in the 20-30 mile per hour range even though the skies were relatively clear.  The wind was down at Boat of Garten Golf and Tennis Club in the Highland village of Boat of Garten, 

The two of us at a great Highland course, Boat of Garten.

but the surrounding mountains of Cairngorm National Park showed a serious dusting of fresh snow.  I actually was down to short sleeves for a few holes at Boat, but playing through the shade of the trees convinced me it was still winter in Scotland and I put my jumper (sweater) back on. 

The find of the trip in terms of golf was the Isle of Harris GC on the Outer Hebridean island of Harris  This nine-hole course is set just above the sands of Scarista Beach with grand views of the North Atlantic ocean.  The course is quirky (in a good way) with blind shots and entertaining holes. 

Teeing off at the 1st on Isle of Harris GC.

One special condition of play at Isle of Harris GC is the almost constant wind which was in the 25-35 mph range the day I played (Anne walked and took notes and photos; too windy for her).  As I came down to the green at the first hole, a hole which plays down from the daylight-basement-style clubhouse to the green next to the beach, I couldn’t see the flag.  

Flag is down, but the beach is lovely at Isle of Harris.  

As I got closer I saw the flag laying on the green.  It had been blown out by the wind; in fact, the only hole that didn’t have its flag blown out was the ninth which is protected by dunes on three sides.  The round at Isle of Harris GC was a rustic adventure in golf the way it was 50 years ago.  Fantastic!

This trip we played several times at our course, St Fillans GC, where we are members, but two rounds stand out.  First, one Sunday towards the end of the trip we got to share our course with fellow Oregonians and friends Eric and Linda Mihata.  

Eric and Linda Mihata at St Fillans GC.

It was a joy to have them play the lovely Highland course we call our Scottish home course.  I think they, too, came away with a better idea of why we spend so much time in Scotland.  Second, on our last day in Crieff before coming home Anne and I got to be on our club’s team in a competition against rivals from Muthill GC.  

Gathering the teams before our match with Muthill GC.

It was a fun match which the St Fillans’ team won 4-2, even though Anne and I lost our match to Jim and Hazel from Muthill by three holes.  There was plenty of convivial conversation over the nice dinner put on by St Fillans manager Gordon Hibbert.  Indeed, a grand golfing trip!

THE FOOD REPORT.  Anne and I usually eat well on our trips, but there were some interesting notes on this trip.  Our dining adventures ranged from the classy to the rustic to the unexpected.  Representing the classy were two of our favorites in Scotland.  First is Yann’s in Crieff (next door to our B&B, Merlindale).  

A birthday dinner of small bites at Yann's.

We ate at Yann’s three times this trip—we took Jacky and Ailsa once, Eric and Linda once, and the special treat was Jacky’s birthday party at Yann’s. 

Jacky with her birthday cake and more small bites.

The birthday party was on a closed day for the restaurant so Yann let me do some photos in the kitchen as he worked preparing a special small bites menu for Jacky.  

Yann works in the small, but efficient restaurant kitchen.

I like to do a little cooking, but (Wow!) it was a thrill to see a real French chef at work. Next in the fine dining category is Anderson’s in Boat of Garten.  

Dinner at Anderson's in Boat of Garten.

We usually make this stop for our last meal when staying in our Aviemore timeshare.  Dinner is always excellent and the atmosphere outstanding. 

A lovely house in Boat of Garten. 

After dinner we walked through the neighborhood which was lovely in the early evening.  

Rustic fits two pubs to a tee.  When on the Isle of Skye we will often stop for lunch at the oldest pub on the island, The Stein Inn.  

Server at the Stein Inn, the oldest pub on the Isle of Skye.

Located on a finger peninsula right on the water, this is a lovely pub which serves good food.  It’s welcome relief from the storm which whenever we’re there seems to rage outside.  The other nice pub is the Cross Keys Inn in Kippen near Stirling in central Scotland.  This trip we took Eric and Linda there so they could get a taste of a Scottish pub.  

The warming fire at Cross Keys in Kippen.

While the food is always well-prepared, Anne and I found that hare isn’t our favorite meat (sort of has the consistency and flavor of liver)—we’ll know not to try it again.

We didn’t expect to find some of the best wood-fired pizza we’ve ever had when we went to the       Sutor Creek Cafe in Cromarty after golf at Fortrose.  

Sutor Creek Cafe with great pizzas.

After 2:00 PM the cafe only serves pizza, but let me tell you that’s all they need to serve.  Outrageously good!  It was also unexpected when we chose the an Lanntair Cafe in Stornaway, Isle of Lewis, for a dinner that we’d also find a local session (music) starting about the time we finished dinner. 

A pub session in Stornaway.

Music sessions are easy to find in Ireland, but we’ve only caught a few in Scotland and this one was the best.  The pub dinner wasn’t too bad either.  This trip seemed to be exceptionally good for eating, yet neither of us gained weight—at least not too much. 

THE NEWPORT HIGHLAND GAMES AND CELTIC FESTIVAL.  Anne and I attended the 5th Annual Newport Games last weekend as vendors—we displayed and sold books and photos, more photos than books.  It’s a great family event with clan booths, sellers of all things Scottish (and Irish and Welsh), ethnic food including the infamous haggis, herding dog demonstrations, Highland event competitions (including caber toss, weight for height, etc.), and music and dancing all the time.  Take a look at some photos from the event.

Our small table set up to sell books and photos at Newport.

A festival goer wearing a t-shirt from the Portland Highland Games.

Dancers on the outdoor stage.

That's a 53# weight he's throwing over a bar 13 foot high.

Jose Le Bihan from Portland sings songs of Celtic Brittany (France).

An impromptu ceili (Scottish dance) happens while Pipedance from Lincoln City plays.

Brother, a Celtic rock group from Ashland, was the headline group of the festival.

Round and round go the yarn spinners.

Maybe you can plan to join us for the 6th Annual Newport Games next year.

NEXT POST: Favorite photos from this spring.