Stories and More

Forest walk from Rumbling Bridge

New Word Learned in Scotland. Mahlneid (maul-need) means “meal envy”—seeing others’ meals go by in a restaurant and wishing you’d ordered that. We’re all guilty of mahlneid.

Journaling Our Travels

Fall Flowers

A Couple of Firsts. For these stories I have to go back a few years—51 or 52 is a few isn’t it? As a senior at Linfield College and president of our debating team, my partner (Michael Harrell, who had been my debate partner in high school) and I traveled extensively for speech and debate tournaments and had some unique experiences, a couple of which were “firsts.” For instance, Mike and I qualified for Sr. Division finals at the University of Montana tournament.  That in itself wasn’t a first, but then they told us that the final debate would be held in the university’s television studio and that it would be broadcast over the state’s public broadcasting service. The tournament director also said it was to be the first televised final tournament debate in history (or at least it was to their knowledge). I honestly don’t remember if we won the debate or not, but it doesn’t matter because we know we were the first.

One of my best Brookings HS debaters, Stacy Shiver.

Another first happened to us at the Brooklyn College Tournament. Every other year the Linfield debate squad took what we called “The Transcontinental”—a month long trip by train to several special tournaments in the eastern US and ending with the National Championship tournament (that year in Whitewater, WI). At the Brooklyn College Tournament Mike and I found ourselves again in a finals round, this time against Harvard. As we set up in the auditorium for the championship debate, our coach Dr. Roy D. “Hap” Mahaffey (a giant in the forensic world and a truly great coach and man) came over to our table to talk to us before the round. We guessed we were in for a good pep talk, but instead Hap looked at us seriously and said, “You must lose this debate!” As he saw our startled reactions he said more strongly, “Don’t ask, just make sure you lose this debate!” I don’t know if we could have beaten Harvard in that debate, but we did as Hap asked and made sure we dropped some important arguments so that we lost the debate. At the awards we were called up to receive our second place awards and then Harvard was called up. Hap said to us, “Here is why you had to lose.” Harvard was awarded first place and a six foot tall Winged Victory trophy and it was announced that Harvard would be back next year to defend their championship. If we had won we would have had to buy another seat on the train for the trophy and would have had to guarantee to return to the tournament the following year — neither of which our minuscule Linfield forensic budget could ever stretch to cover.  

Participating in the first televised championship debate was indeed a privilege, but throwing our first championship debate seems like a better story fifty years later.

Anne at our tablet Samhain Festival in Salem.

First he danced to the bagpipe, then he showed us how to put on a Great Kilt...

You lay it out on the floor, pleat it, lay on it, and roll to get it around you, then tie it off with a belt. I'll stick to my small kilts.

A See’s Success Story.  A few years ago we took our Scottish friend, John Clifford, a birthday present of a one pound box of See’s Famous Old Time Candies. We heard later that he’d had one piece of the See’s and not more because his wife Jacky thought it was the best chocolate in the world and ate the rest of the box. Now we are sort of expected to bring See’s with us when we come to Scotland as birthday gifts or as a thank you for Jacky—a task we are always happy to perform.

This last trip we brought a box to Jacky as per usual and one as a thank you gift for our whisky guru, Andrew Cuthbert, for storing our golf clubs over the summer. When we presented the gift to Andrew and his wife Evie I said, “Do you like chocolate?” “Oh, yes!” was the reply. Then I asked, “Do you like fine Belgian chocolate?” They sell it in their store, J L Gill, so of course they said, “Very much!” Then I said, “Well, I have something that we think is better than Belgian chocolate,” and gave them the box of See’s. They thanked us appropriately, if not enthusiastically.

Rainbow over the Village

     A couple of days later I asked Andrew if he had tried the See’s. He said, “It’s gone!” and he told me this story. He told me the two of them weren’t very excited about the gift because neither thought very highly of American chocolate, preferring Belgian or even Scottish chocolates to American. Then they tried the See’s and were amazed. They ate the whole box in a couple of days fighting over every piece.

From now on our suitcases will have several boxes of See’s on the way over, to be replaced with bottles of whisky for the trip back. 

Proof that I was in Scotland.

The Rousay Ferry.  From Mainland Orkney, the largest of the Orkney islands off the north coast of Scotland, we had to take a small ferry (it held only about six vehicles) to get to Rousay Island, a treasure trove of ancient Neolithic sites such as burial cairns and brochs.

Historic Scotland, a national trust, preserves this 4000 year old burial tomb on Rousay.

We visited two brochs in the Orkneys; this one is the Broch of Durness on the main island. A broch is a circular defensive structure from about 100AD.

I pulled our rental car into the back of the queue for the ferry and went into the office to buy a return (roundtrip) ferry ticket. We sat in the car for a few minutes until the ferry arrived from Rousay. The queue seemed to be facing the wrong way to get onto the ferry, but it only took a minute to understand that we would back onto the ferry via a narrow slip and that I would go first. A ferryman came over to our car and told Anne she had to walk on and for me to go ahead—well, really, to back up. I asked him if he really wanted an American to go first. He laughed and said I’d be alright. I started backing up the very narrow ferry ramp and wildly waved at Anne to get some photos. She thought I was having trouble and quickly told a ferryman she thought I needed help. He assured her I was doing fine.

Backing our rental car onto the Rousay ferry.

 I parked right where I was directed the first time. Loading onto the ferry on our return trip was just as interesting—we had to fit three cars and huge tractor with mower—and yes, we all had to back on.

Our Canby home in full fall colors.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING

GOLF, FOOD, AND FESTIVAL

Fishing boat returns to harbour on Isle of Skye.

      Our recent trip to Scotland was filled with sightseeing, fun activities, family and more., but two parts of the trip will be highlighted in this post: the golf we played and the places we found to eat.  Besides those threads, I’ll end this post with a report on a Celtic festival Anne and I attended in Newport, Oregon.  First, though,…

THE GOLF.  On this trip we played 16 rounds on ten different courses, walked 72 miles, and had some wonderful experiences.  Some golf highlights (not in order of play) start with the round we played at Crail Balcomie Links on the East Neuk of the Kingdom of Fife on the east coast of Scotland about 10 miles from St Andrews.  

Crail Balcomie Links

Not only is the course a classic ancient (mid-1800s) course that is ranked in the Top 100 in the world, but the day was perfect for golf beside the sea—reasonably warm for this spring and with no wind.  After both of us scored well on the course, 

Rescue boat in Anstruther harbour.

Fishing boat leaves Anstruther harbour.

Pittenweem harbour.

we drove south along the sea and scored well with photos at two of the picturesque small ports of Fife.

At both Montrose Medal Course (along the east coast) 

Montrose Medal GC.

and Fortrose and Rosmarkie GC (on the Black Isle a little north of Inverness) 

Anne dressed for the cold, but sunny weather.

Fortrose and Rosemarkie GC on the Black Isle.

we fought cold winds in the 20-30 mile per hour range even though the skies were relatively clear.  The wind was down at Boat of Garten Golf and Tennis Club in the Highland village of Boat of Garten, 

The two of us at a great Highland course, Boat of Garten.

but the surrounding mountains of Cairngorm National Park showed a serious dusting of fresh snow.  I actually was down to short sleeves for a few holes at Boat, but playing through the shade of the trees convinced me it was still winter in Scotland and I put my jumper (sweater) back on. 

The find of the trip in terms of golf was the Isle of Harris GC on the Outer Hebridean island of Harris  This nine-hole course is set just above the sands of Scarista Beach with grand views of the North Atlantic ocean.  The course is quirky (in a good way) with blind shots and entertaining holes. 

Teeing off at the 1st on Isle of Harris GC.

One special condition of play at Isle of Harris GC is the almost constant wind which was in the 25-35 mph range the day I played (Anne walked and took notes and photos; too windy for her).  As I came down to the green at the first hole, a hole which plays down from the daylight-basement-style clubhouse to the green next to the beach, I couldn’t see the flag.  

Flag is down, but the beach is lovely at Isle of Harris.  

As I got closer I saw the flag laying on the green.  It had been blown out by the wind; in fact, the only hole that didn’t have its flag blown out was the ninth which is protected by dunes on three sides.  The round at Isle of Harris GC was a rustic adventure in golf the way it was 50 years ago.  Fantastic!

This trip we played several times at our course, St Fillans GC, where we are members, but two rounds stand out.  First, one Sunday towards the end of the trip we got to share our course with fellow Oregonians and friends Eric and Linda Mihata.  

Eric and Linda Mihata at St Fillans GC.

It was a joy to have them play the lovely Highland course we call our Scottish home course.  I think they, too, came away with a better idea of why we spend so much time in Scotland.  Second, on our last day in Crieff before coming home Anne and I got to be on our club’s team in a competition against rivals from Muthill GC.  

Gathering the teams before our match with Muthill GC.

It was a fun match which the St Fillans’ team won 4-2, even though Anne and I lost our match to Jim and Hazel from Muthill by three holes.  There was plenty of convivial conversation over the nice dinner put on by St Fillans manager Gordon Hibbert.  Indeed, a grand golfing trip!

THE FOOD REPORT.  Anne and I usually eat well on our trips, but there were some interesting notes on this trip.  Our dining adventures ranged from the classy to the rustic to the unexpected.  Representing the classy were two of our favorites in Scotland.  First is Yann’s in Crieff (next door to our B&B, Merlindale).  

A birthday dinner of small bites at Yann's.

We ate at Yann’s three times this trip—we took Jacky and Ailsa once, Eric and Linda once, and the special treat was Jacky’s birthday party at Yann’s. 

Jacky with her birthday cake and more small bites.

The birthday party was on a closed day for the restaurant so Yann let me do some photos in the kitchen as he worked preparing a special small bites menu for Jacky.  

Yann works in the small, but efficient restaurant kitchen.

I like to do a little cooking, but (Wow!) it was a thrill to see a real French chef at work. Next in the fine dining category is Anderson’s in Boat of Garten.  

Dinner at Anderson's in Boat of Garten.

We usually make this stop for our last meal when staying in our Aviemore timeshare.  Dinner is always excellent and the atmosphere outstanding. 

A lovely house in Boat of Garten. 

After dinner we walked through the neighborhood which was lovely in the early evening.  

Rustic fits two pubs to a tee.  When on the Isle of Skye we will often stop for lunch at the oldest pub on the island, The Stein Inn.  

Server at the Stein Inn, the oldest pub on the Isle of Skye.

Located on a finger peninsula right on the water, this is a lovely pub which serves good food.  It’s welcome relief from the storm which whenever we’re there seems to rage outside.  The other nice pub is the Cross Keys Inn in Kippen near Stirling in central Scotland.  This trip we took Eric and Linda there so they could get a taste of a Scottish pub.  

The warming fire at Cross Keys in Kippen.

While the food is always well-prepared, Anne and I found that hare isn’t our favorite meat (sort of has the consistency and flavor of liver)—we’ll know not to try it again.

We didn’t expect to find some of the best wood-fired pizza we’ve ever had when we went to the       Sutor Creek Cafe in Cromarty after golf at Fortrose.  

Sutor Creek Cafe with great pizzas.

After 2:00 PM the cafe only serves pizza, but let me tell you that’s all they need to serve.  Outrageously good!  It was also unexpected when we chose the an Lanntair Cafe in Stornaway, Isle of Lewis, for a dinner that we’d also find a local session (music) starting about the time we finished dinner. 

A pub session in Stornaway.

Music sessions are easy to find in Ireland, but we’ve only caught a few in Scotland and this one was the best.  The pub dinner wasn’t too bad either.  This trip seemed to be exceptionally good for eating, yet neither of us gained weight—at least not too much. 

THE NEWPORT HIGHLAND GAMES AND CELTIC FESTIVAL.  Anne and I attended the 5th Annual Newport Games last weekend as vendors—we displayed and sold books and photos, more photos than books.  It’s a great family event with clan booths, sellers of all things Scottish (and Irish and Welsh), ethnic food including the infamous haggis, herding dog demonstrations, Highland event competitions (including caber toss, weight for height, etc.), and music and dancing all the time.  Take a look at some photos from the event.

Our small table set up to sell books and photos at Newport.

A festival goer wearing a t-shirt from the Portland Highland Games.

Dancers on the outdoor stage.

That's a 53# weight he's throwing over a bar 13 foot high.

Jose Le Bihan from Portland sings songs of Celtic Brittany (France).

An impromptu ceili (Scottish dance) happens while Pipedance from Lincoln City plays.

Brother, a Celtic rock group from Ashland, was the headline group of the festival.

Round and round go the yarn spinners.

Maybe you can plan to join us for the 6th Annual Newport Games next year.

NEXT POST: Favorite photos from this spring.