Friday, December 14, 2018

Victoria BC

Breakfast on the way to Victoria at Country Cousins in Centralia, WA.

The topic for this post is our recent trip to Victoria, BC, Canada, to celebrate our 50th wedding anniversary. This post also celebrates for me the 150th post on this travel blog since I started it in April of 2011—that’s quite a bit of travel and a large bunch of photos. Now on to Victoria.
Victoria is about four and a half hours north of Portland by car to Port Angeles, Washington, 
Major accident southbound on I-5 slowed us down.

then an hour and a half ferry ride to the city. Victoria is the provincial capital of British Columbia and is situated on the southern coast of Vancouver Island. 
Victoria has a lovely skyline from the harbour.

Major construction downtown while saving the character of the building.

Victoria at night

It’s one of the oldest cities in the Pacific Northwest having been settled in 1843. The most iconic building in the city is the Parliament building which was completed in 1879. We really enjoy Victoria—it’s an easy city to get around in and has plenty of fine eating places and shopping. 

Anne shopping in the Irish shop.

Interesting shopping in the west coast's second oldest Chinatown; this is Fan Tan Alley.

Street artist.

She could barely make it to the chair.
It’s particularly beautiful when decked out for the Christmas season which gets its official start with the lighting of the Parliament building on the first Saturday in December
Parliament Building lighted for Christmas.

—the shops, obviously, are ready for Christmas shoppers much earlier. 
Besides Parliament, another iconic building in Victoria is the Fairmont Empress Hotel on the harbour. 
Empress Hotel from the edge of the harbour.

Opened in 1908, the Empress has been serving Afternoon Tea practically since it opened. Called “among the world’s best tea experiences,” Afternoon Tea at the Empress is a treat not to be missed. Often called “High Tea” (which was really a hot meal for industrial workers returning home after a long day of work, now called supper or dinner), the Empress Afternoon Tea consists of a choice of specialty teas from a list of 21 loose leaf blends and a three course lunch served on a tiered platter. 
Tea Steeping Timers: green for 3, white for 4, and gold for 5 minutes.

The Full Monty

Special Touches at the Empress

The typical meal includes: first, warm raisin scones with clotted cream and strawberry lavender preserves; second, finger sandwiches (smoked salmon on blini, shrimp tartlet, English cucumber on rye, and roast beef on whole wheat); and third, a layer of sweets (chocolate and passion fruit tart, berry and pistachio daisy, caramel banana cake, and queen bee shortbread). Even though the portions seem small, because of the tea and relaxed atmosphere in the beautiful tea room, we couldn’t finish the final course and took several of the sweets home with us. The teas were also special. Anne had Rose Congou Emporer tea—five times layered with rose petals and a favorite of Princess Diana. I had Bella Coola Organic tea—orange notes and highlights of velvety pineapple. From the excellent service by staff to the visit by the tea manager to explain our selections in more detail to the serving plates—1914 design King George V china first used in 1939 for the Royal visit of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth (Queen Mum) and now exclusive to the Empress Hotel

—everything about the Afternoon Tea  at the Empress is beyond First Class, and be warned, that includes the price. But you can have a great Afternoon Tea experience at an affordable price in Victoria. Check out White Heather Tea Room in the Cook Village neighborhood. 
Afternoon Tea at White Heather Tea Room.

The “Wee” tea we had there was excellent even if not as fancy as the Empress and less than half the tariff. 
Another building in Victoria which should attract your attention is Canada’s Castle, Craigdarroch Castle. 

Craigdarroch (“rocky, oak place” in Gaelic) is the fine four story mansion built in 1890 by Scottish immigrant and coal baron Robert Dunsmuir. The mansion is a “bonanza house” built by the nouveau rich of the industrial revolution and was designed by Portland architect Warren Heywood Williams. 

The Formal Dining Room

The Family Dining Room

Craigdarroch has had several uses besides a family home including a military hospital and a School of Music. The house is now held by a private trust as a Victorian period museum. At Christmas time the Victorian decorations are particularly lovely.  
Our last stop of note in Victoria was the Royal Museum of British Columbia next to the Parliament building in the downtown area. We’ve toured the museum on almost every one of our visits to Victoria—we always find much to interest us. This trip we were eager to see the Egyptian Exhibition from London. 
Most of the artifacts were from between 6th C and 3rd C BC. though some were as old as 1550 BC.

The exhibit didn’t disappoint, even though we saw a special Egyptian exhibit last year in Edinburgh. The artifacts were displayed beautifully and all were labeled with sufficient information for understanding. 
A Chief's Costume.

We also toured the First Nation (native) area which is always fascinating. 
Outside town we made it to two attractions. First, we visited Fort Rodd Hill, a retired defensive artillery station and the Fisgard Lighthouse next to it. The Fort, in use since the 1840s, was turned into National Historic Site (museum) in 1958. 
Wandering among the batteries at the fort.

Interesting display in the Magazine Building; hope they weren't live.

The Fisgard Lighthouse, built in 1860, warns shipping entering Esquimalt harbour and was the first lighthouse built on the west coast of Canada. Until 1950 the lighthouse was situated on a small island, but the island has now been connected to the mainland by a short causeway. 
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Both sites offer great creative photo opportunities. Secondly, we took a drive to the north on the Saanich peninsula to Sidney 
View of Mt Baker on the way to Sidney.

and then to the Victoria Butterfly Gardens near the famous Butchart Gardens. The Butterfly Gardens highlight about 70 different species of tropical butterflies in an enclosure about as big as three basketball courts. 

A pair of Plain Tiger butterflies (Costa Rica).

White Tree Nymph (Philippines).

Besides the butterflies we saw poison dart frogs, tropical birds, 
Blue and Gold Macaw named "Shadow" from South America.

Parrots Preening

turtles, iguanas, among others. New to us this year was an Insectarium
Jungle Nymph from West Malaysia.

—displays of living jungle insects including leaf cutter ants. I took two walk-thoughs and still didn’t see everything on offer.
We seem to schedule a trip to Victoria every couple of years. It’s a lovely place to visit—good shopping, plenty to see and do, 
Fisherman's Wharf Houseboats

even in the winter we get decent weather, good restaurants, 
Fantastic breakfast at Jam Cafe downtown.

great photo opportunities, friendly people,
In a nice coffee shop we got the full history of her hat.

 and we have a great place to stay at the Worldmark Victoria (timeshare). 
Worldmark Victoria from the ferry on our way home.

This tug helped turn the ferry around so we could leave the harbour.

Near Hoodsport (WA) we got some good photos of a herd of Elk alongside the road.

NEXT: We join the Travel Trailer set with a new Little Guy Mini Max, a large teardrop trailer.


Monday, November 19, 2018

Stories and More

Forest walk from Rumbling Bridge

New Word Learned in Scotland. Mahlneid (maul-need) means “meal envy”—seeing others’ meals go by in a restaurant and wishing you’d ordered that. We’re all guilty of mahlneid.
Journaling Our Travels

Fall Flowers

A Couple of Firsts. For these stories I have to go back a few years—51 or 52 is a few isn’t it? As a senior at Linfield College and president of our debating team, my partner (Michael Harrell, who had been my debate partner in high school) and I traveled extensively for speech and debate tournaments and had some unique experiences, a couple of which were “firsts.” For instance, Mike and I qualified for Sr. Division finals at the University of Montana tournament.  That in itself wasn’t a first, but then they told us that the final debate would be held in the university’s television studio and that it would be broadcast over the state’s public broadcasting service. The tournament director also said it was to be the first televised final tournament debate in history (or at least it was to their knowledge). I honestly don’t remember if we won the debate or not, but it doesn’t matter because we know we were the first.
One of my best Brookings HS debaters, Stacy Shiver.

Another first happened to us at the Brooklyn College Tournament. Every other year the Linfield debate squad took what we called “The Transcontinental”—a month long trip by train to several special tournaments in the eastern US and ending with the National Championship tournament (that year in Whitewater, WI). At the Brooklyn College Tournament Mike and I found ourselves again in a finals round, this time against Harvard. As we set up in the auditorium for the championship debate, our coach Dr. Roy D. “Hap” Mahaffey (a giant in the forensic world and a truly great coach and man) came over to our table to talk to us before the round. We guessed we were in for a good pep talk, but instead Hap looked at us seriously and said, “You must lose this debate!” As he saw our startled reactions he said more strongly, “Don’t ask, just make sure you lose this debate!” I don’t know if we could have beaten Harvard in that debate, but we did as Hap asked and made sure we dropped some important arguments so that we lost the debate. At the awards we were called up to receive our second place awards and then Harvard was called up. Hap said to us, “Here is why you had to lose.” Harvard was awarded first place and a six foot tall Winged Victory trophy and it was announced that Harvard would be back next year to defend their championship. If we had won we would have had to buy another seat on the train for the trophy and would have had to guarantee to return to the tournament the following year — neither of which our minuscule Linfield forensic budget could ever stretch to cover.  
Participating in the first televised championship debate was indeed a privilege, but throwing our first championship debate seems like a better story fifty years later.
Anne at our tablet Samhain Festival in Salem.

First he danced to the bagpipe, then he showed us how to put on a Great Kilt...

You lay it out on the floor, pleat it, lay on it, and roll to get it around you, then tie it off with a belt. I'll stick to my small kilts.

A See’s Success Story.  A few years ago we took our Scottish friend, John Clifford, a birthday present of a one pound box of See’s Famous Old Time Candies. We heard later that he’d had one piece of the See’s and not more because his wife Jacky thought it was the best chocolate in the world and ate the rest of the box. Now we are sort of expected to bring See’s with us when we come to Scotland as birthday gifts or as a thank you for Jacky—a task we are always happy to perform.
This last trip we brought a box to Jacky as per usual and one as a thank you gift for our whisky guru, Andrew Cuthbert, for storing our golf clubs over the summer. When we presented the gift to Andrew and his wife Evie I said, “Do you like chocolate?” “Oh, yes!” was the reply. Then I asked, “Do you like fine Belgian chocolate?” They sell it in their store, J L Gill, so of course they said, “Very much!” Then I said, “Well, I have something that we think is better than Belgian chocolate,” and gave them the box of See’s. They thanked us appropriately, if not enthusiastically.
Rainbow over the Village

     A couple of days later I asked Andrew if he had tried the See’s. He said, “It’s gone!” and he told me this story. He told me the two of them weren’t very excited about the gift because neither thought very highly of American chocolate, preferring Belgian or even Scottish chocolates to American. Then they tried the See’s and were amazed. They ate the whole box in a couple of days fighting over every piece.
From now on our suitcases will have several boxes of See’s on the way over, to be replaced with bottles of whisky for the trip back. 
Proof that I was in Scotland.

The Rousay Ferry.  From Mainland Orkney, the largest of the Orkney islands off the north coast of Scotland, we had to take a small ferry (it held only about six vehicles) to get to Rousay Island, a treasure trove of ancient Neolithic sites such as burial cairns and brochs.
Historic Scotland, a national trust, preserves this 4000 year old burial tomb on Rousay.

We visited two brochs in the Orkneys; this one is the Broch of Durness on the main island. A broch is a circular defensive structure from about 100AD.

I pulled our rental car into the back of the queue for the ferry and went into the office to buy a return (roundtrip) ferry ticket. We sat in the car for a few minutes until the ferry arrived from Rousay. The queue seemed to be facing the wrong way to get onto the ferry, but it only took a minute to understand that we would back onto the ferry via a narrow slip and that I would go first. A ferryman came over to our car and told Anne she had to walk on and for me to go ahead—well, really, to back up. I asked him if he really wanted an American to go first. He laughed and said I’d be alright. I started backing up the very narrow ferry ramp and wildly waved at Anne to get some photos. She thought I was having trouble and quickly told a ferryman she thought I needed help. He assured her I was doing fine.
Backing our rental car onto the Rousay ferry.

 I parked right where I was directed the first time. Loading onto the ferry on our return trip was just as interesting—we had to fit three cars and huge tractor with mower—and yes, we all had to back on.
Our Canby home in full fall colors.