Showing posts with label Nevada. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nevada. Show all posts

Sunday, March 4, 2018

Death Valley and Beyond, Part 2


As we continue with our Cali/Nevada explorations we find one of the more unusual features of Death Valley—sand dunes. The Oregon coast has a great expanse of sand dunes between North Bend and Florence. 
Anne with the team at Pistol River

I’m very familiar with these dunes because I used to train and run my sled dog team around and over those dunes, but the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes in the north end of Death Valley seem very strange. Called tawny dunes which rise as high as 150 feet and located near Stovepipe Wells, these dunes are like a small Sahara in the valley. 



In the early morning it was easy to find tracks from the night before.

The sand is quartz and feldspar which have been broken down from larger pieces of the nearby Cottonwood mountains. Also in the northern part of the park and near the Mesquite Sand Dunes parking area is an area known as the Devil’s Cornfield. 

Here Arrowweed grows tall in the desert salt flats with the soil mounding around their base making them look even taller. Thus they resemble corn stalks from which only the Devil could harvest corn.
Before leaving the valley we visited a portion of a major jeep trail called the Titus Canyon Road. From the highway which runs from Stovepipe Wells to Beatty, NV, the one-way jeep trail covers 26 miles of badlands, desert, and canyon only accessible by Four Wheel Drive vehicles. 

The approach and road to Titus Canyon.

But from the Stovepipe Wells area there is a three mile two-way access road with parking at the canyon entrance. 



Found some lovely quartz in the canyon walls.




Anne and I walked a little less than a mile of the tightest canyon section, called The Narrows. The road, a wide walking path for us, winds through varied colored rock walls and formations with different scenes around every corner. 
Leaving Death Valley via the road to Beatty, 
Looking back toward the dunes and Stovepipe Wells.

Corkscrew Mountain on the way to Beatty.

we stopped as we have before at the ghost town of Rhyolite (one of several in or near the valley—Ballarat, Leadfield, Panamint City). Rhyolite is the largest and at its peak between 1905-1911 had over 10,000 population with two churches, 50 saloons, 18 stores, and 19 lodgings. 
The ghost town just seems to demand black and white photos.




Today, there are remains of a few commercial buildings, one hotel/saloon, a house made out of glass bottles, and a couple of derelict residences. We’ve visited several times and can see very small changes in the condition of buildings, but the desert will eventually claim it all. 
Besides Death Valley, during our Las Vegas stay we ventured out to the Lake Mead National Recreation Area on our way to Valley of Fire State Park. The Lake Mead Recreation Area was created in 1964 as the first national recreation area and contains 1.5 million acres. 




Called “America’s first playground,” the Northshore Road gives very little access to the lake itself—I was expecting scenes like I see of Lake Powell in Arizona. What we got was a nice drive through badlands and red stone outcroppings on our way to the east entrance of the Valley of Fire.
Nevada’s first state park, Valley of Fire, is about an hour north of Las Vegas via freeway (or closer to two hours away via Northshore Road). Dedicated in 1935, the 46,000 acre park is in the greater Mojave Desert region. 

Named for the bright red Aztec Sandstone outcroppings, the park has been used often as a major movie location. Once used by the Ancient Pueblo People, known as the Anasazi, their Rock Art (petroglyphs) remains a major attraction. 


We saw some of the petroglyphs on this trip first behind The Cabins—three shelters built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s and used as shelters by travelers on the Arrowhead Trail which ran between Salt Lake City and Los Angeles via Las Vegas. Next we took the Mouse’s Tank Trail (aka Petroglyph Canyon), a trail named for a local outlaw who used the canyon as a hideout in the 1890s. 
Beginning of Petroglyph Canyon.




The 3/4 mile trail leads to “the tank”—a natural basin where water collects. The canyon is filled with native petroglyphs. Our final stop was at Atlatl Rock which is a rock monolith with numerous panels of native rock art--
Atlatl Rock

A panel of petroglyphs like this is often called an Indian newspaper.



—including those depicting the use of an atlatl, a notched stick that aids in throwing small spears or arrows. You can see atlatl throwers on the main panel, but all around the rock are numerous groupings of petroglyphs.
Anne at the picnic area at Atlatl Rock.

     After the 70-85ยบ temperatures of Las Vegas, Death Valley, and Valley of Fire, it was quite a change to come home to even the tiny bit of snow we got in Canby. Oh well, back to reality.

NEXT: About my new book.

Wednesday, February 4, 2015

A Tale of Two Valleys: Valley of Fire and Death Valley

We had never been to the Valley of Fire about 50 miles northeast of Las Vegas, but we had been before to Death Valley.  On our most recent trip to Las Vegas we managed to go to both valleys.  
Valley of Fire Visitor Center
Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada

The Valley of Fire, Nevada’s first state park (1935), is an area of ancient sandstone and sand dunes at an elevation of between 2000 and 2600 feet.  The valley has been often used for both TV and movie filming: “The Professionals” starring Burt Lancaster and Lee Marvin and “Star Trek Generation” were filled there.  
Valley of Fire Landscape

Big Horn Sheep in Valley of Fire

      Prehistoric users of the valley include Basket Maker people and later the Anasazi (Navajo for “Ancient Ones”) Pueblo farmers from nearby Moapa Valley.  

Sun and Pinnacle on Mouse's Tank Trail
Native peoples used the Valley of Fire from about 300 B.C.E. to 1150 C.E. for hunting, food gathering, and religious ceremonies.  One of the main features of today’s park is the rock art found particularly along the Mouse’s Tank trail and Atlatl trail.  
Anasazi Petroglyphs Carved on Rock varnish

Symbols for Shaman and Circle of Life
We spent time photographing the scenery and especially the petroglyphs along Mouse’s Tank trail.  The Tank refers to two natural potholes in the sandstone rock part way down a waterfall (usually dry) at the end of the canyon that hold water longer than other places.  
Ceremonial Dancers and Big Horn Sheep

Petroglyphs along Mouse's Tank trail

And it’s called Mouse’s Tank after a southern Paiute Indian named Little Mouse who hid in the area to avoid (unsuccessfully) a lynching party.  The trail is one of the riches areas for petroglyphs—symbols carved into the surface of rock varnish or desert varnish (glossy black, brown, or orange-brown layer of natural chemical deposit on rock surfaces, mainly in the desert).  
Petrified Log in Valley of Fire

View from Rainbow Vista in Valley of Fire State Park
Besides the Anasazi carved symbols, the area is rich in geological splendor.

Death Valley, California

Nopah Mountain Range at the South End of Death Valley (from the east).

Nopah Mountain Range

In Death Valley (California) we stayed at Stovepipe Wells Village in the north end of the valley.  The motel provides decent and relatively inexpensive accommodation as well as a small grocery store, gift shop, bar, and restaurant (average at best).  On this trip we had some good photo opportunities with sun, clouds, and clean air one day—the next day was much hazier.  
There is plenty to see in Death Valley and on this trip we tried to do things we hadn’t on our last visit.  Before we dropped into the Valley at Furnace Creek (Hwy 190) we drove the three miles dirt road (easily passable by passenger cars, especially if they are rentals) of Twenty Mule Team Canyon.  
The Road through Twenty Mule Team Canyon

Twenty Mule Team Canyon

The eight mile paved road called Artist Drive is also great for photographers.  
View on Hwy 190 above Death Valley

A highlight for us was Salt Creek—a boardwalk along a small stream which is home to the rare pupfish and several species of small birds.  
Sunset at Salt Creek

On the way out of the park we stopped at the ghost town of Ryolite on our way to Beatty in Nevada.  
Ryolite ghost Town Relic

Even Beatty, NV, Is Starting to Look Like a Ghost Town


The two valleys are great places to explore and photograph, but always in the desert caution is necessary.  Be safe, especially in extreme heat, and be aware of the fragility of the desert environment and the artifacts left by the “Ancient Ones.” 
Rock on Hwy 374 Near Titus Canyon in Death Valley
Feedback Please: Let me know your favorite photo from each valley--tell me which photos I should mount up and frame for sale.